How Bazar 4: The Return of the Bazar

I love how, at this time of year, night kind of sneaks up on you. The first Friday of the month, I leave my apartment at about five o’clock for the Jomeh Bazar, with the sun hanging low, but not quite setting. When I arrive at five thirty, it’s full evening.

Pictured: a flame for a certain kind of moth

I’m greeted at once by Isa, who leaves the safety of his coffee-and-tea table and greets me with a handshake that transforms into a hug. The first time he did this, it alarmed me; this time, however, I go with it. He’s located next to the DJ booth’s giant speakers, so it’s a lot harder to talk, but I discover he is selling books in addition to his baklava and hot and cold drinks.

Pictured: Words, words, words

He has four books for sale: a spy thriller called The Making of an Informant; a bilingual poetry library called Kendi; his memoirs, Waiter; and Sentences in Love with Themselves, a collection of essays with a title so clever I have to buy one.

His slick website (https://isaseyran.com/index.html), unveils a vision. Whether he’s introducing you to the people he’s collected at the Ballstonian or introducing you to his world on the page, stage, and film, Isa is a consummate host. He yells out to passersby to introduce them to his beverages, and he has the nerve to call himself an introvert.

One of his customers is an elf with a raven pixie cut, a black bomber jacket, dark skinny jeans, and a camera slung onto her hip. She is overjoyed to talk to Isa for the first time, as are most people, but she’s as relaxed as a cat in a room full of mousetraps. We’ll get back to her.

The second thing I do at the Bazar is find something to eat. This comes in the form of Toot Toot, a Lebanese popup. I’ve had a man’oushe with them before, and I remember loving it. This time, I ask for a recommendation, and they talk me into the either blue or goat cheese. I choose the latter and optional labneh. I can come back in ten to fifteen minutes to pick it up.

Pictured: Refreshment

With all this time to kill, I take my Turkish tea and find Zack, where I get the most baffling reading I’ve gotten so far.

Last month, two things Zack told me to watch out for a pair of trees and something snake-related, both of which have messages for me. I’ve spotted a pair of trees on the corner of my apartment building, but the only message they seem to be making is the Wing Stop behind them. I explain this to Zack, and he tells me to keep looking. They symbolize something, and it’s important I know what it is.

As he prophesized, I’ve been bombarded by serpent imagery in October because of something that’s hard to admit to: I’ve been swept up in the Malfoid craze. I suggest you look it up. It’s made up of something never been crazy about (Harry Potter, even before its creator turned into a monster) and it’s something I loathe (AI). It’s a deep-dive in the Slytherin House, represented by a snake, and features genderbending and flirting. Zack interprets this to mean I’m looking for some kind of a connection.

Pictured: the future

With this month’s spread, he draws the death card. He says, “There’s this meme that the death card only means a spiritual death, but it actually means a real death. Probably not yours.” He’s seeing something about keys, which I collect them; also, I have a set of Nicole’s so I can watch out for her cat, Henry. Recently, I had to take an emergency trip to her apartment to bring of my two set back to her. (“Yes,” Zack says.) Two hours later, her cat Henry has a heart attack. (“That’s it!”) But Henry made a full recovery. (“The cat’s gonna die, I hate to say it.”)

He also brings up a bird of prey, and I tell him I’m a big owl guy. I also go to ground from my birthday to late September, when I peek my head out. It’s interesting I put it like that, he says, because the summer as my journey into the underworld, as represented in the death card.

The underworld motif explains the thing I need to remember more than anything else. He asks how I feel about pomegranates. I tell him I’m agnostic. He acknowledges I’m happy living my little hobbit-hole life, but I still need someone to share it with. He tells me the pomegranates are the key. He doesn’t say why or how, just pomegranates.

A half-hour after my man’oushe is ready, I pick it up and wander, shooting off a quick, one-handed text to my closest friend. She asks me how my reading went. I tell her about the pomegranates. She tells me she just got back from the store, where she bought a fresh pomegranate.

I have to sit down for a moment.

I go back to Zack’s table and tell him. He high-fives me.

On my way to the Ballstonian, I peek my head into the Sewing Machine Petting Zoo. Even though I know nothing about sewing, I’m impressed with the age of everything.

Pictured: natural habitat

I hang out with Isa a little more. He’s being a salesman, as per usual, and I get a chai and attempt to pay for my tea from earlier. He takes the money for the chai, and that’s it. I pass him my second credit card so I can buy Sentences, which comes with a spicy hot chocolate. He rattles off a list of ten ingredients, none of which are sugar. “Oh, and nutmeg.” Of all the writing he has done, the essay is his favorite. It’s the direct conduit from the mind to the page. You don’t have to persuade, you just have to be. I tell him I used to write a lot of essays in my blog, but now I mostly tell people what I’m doing, which seems to be what they want. He now has my website. He will probably be reading about my early impressions of himself soon.

It’s time to wrap things up, but I have a feeling it’s going to take a while. First, I see Saira, the master of the herbal concoction. I tell him that “De-stress” stressed my cat out, and he explained that valerian root smells like catnip. Mystery solved. He introduces me to his new blend, a mixture to get me through the winter months he calls “Warmth.” With my purchase, he gives me some “Warmth” tea, it takes the edge off the chai and Turkish tea. It feels good to be a regular.

Pictured: epic shit

This time he’s sharing his tent with someone whose name I don’t catch, but I think of her as “The Designer.” I also don’t know the name of her shop, but I think “Do Epic Shit” is a perfectly good one. Her designs are aggressively artistic, Bohemian chic, with patches of color that match, but only barely. There’s a belly-dancer aesthetic to them too.

I have a nice conversation with her about her style, mentioning that fashion is the reason I draw mostly women. She’s always wanted to incorporate paint into her clothes, but it doesn’t stick well to the textiles. I recommend P.H. Marten, a paint with the texture and viscosity of ink.

What’s amazing to me is that it feels like these virtual strangers are really listening to me and trusting any expertise. From the designer frantically typing “TH Martin” into her phone to Isa looking up my blog as I talk to him, I’m not so much an extra as a part of their lives.

This is no more apparent than when Mina explodes with joy upon seeing me and tackles me in a hug. She has to do “marketing shit” for Instragram, so she can’t hang out and talk, but she needs to take a moment to tell me how much she loves my blog—I’d sent her the three Bazar entries I’ve written thus far. When she didn’t respond to the message I sent her with the links, I assumed she was just being nice, but she was just busy and forgetting, just like the artist she is.

I’m left alone with her partner, and I tell him about the pomegranate and my friend, and he’s as blown away as I am. I see a print of a pomegranate on the wall, and we’re blown away by that too.

As we’re chatting, the elf returns, and she continues a conversation with him about meels. She is paying no attention to me, so I wait patiently for her to leave, until she unexpectedly turns her whole body around to explain to me what meels are. She describes them as bowling pins that you twirl with your whole arm. She even shows me a video. “Bowling pins” is an inaccurate description. What the massive men are hefting are the size of butter churns.

I ask her about her camera, and she tells me she likes to do documentary photography, especially portraiture. She hasn’t found a subject that’s caught her attention in years, but she still brings the camera with her, just in case. A jane of all trades, she dabbles in all kinds of media, but her current true passion is a salt cellar done in the style of the Armenian goddess Anahit. She keeps producing them and would like to make a shrine out of them someday. She just can’t figure out why.

I ask her really good questions, which alarms me because I’m not very good at that that kind of thing. The whole point is to get her to tell me why. Does she identify with Anahit? Most importantly, is it okay if it’s just because she likes the process? With each answer, she laments her inability to answer her question while answering it with depth and insight. The last thing she wants is to be doing it because of her cultural heritage.

She’s jittery, but she seems to like talking. Her tangents are sure of themselves and don’t sound at all like nervous babbling. Her enormous, dark eyes hold mine as she brushes hair that isn’t there behind her ears. I don’t talk about myself at all, but I don’t want to. I’m not used to conversing with artists who love to discuss their craft, so I savor every moment. She shows me a picture of some of the cellars and tells me that cutting out their tummies is her favorite part, which is kind of sick.

The whole time we’re talking, I’m aware of the pomegranate print over her shoulder.

Even under the influence of the Ballstonian delights, my bed calls to me from a Metro stop and twelve-minute walk away. I excuse myself, and she falls apart subtly. She’s afraid she drove me off by talking to me for what may have been forty-five minutes. I assure her she’s a fascinating person, and I’ve enjoyed everything she had to say.

I shake her hand. “I’m Jeremiah.”

“I’m Aziz,” she replies. She gives me a second name. “Aziz is my pen name. The other on is my … I’m Aziz.”

There’s no reason I shouldn’t ask for her Instagram handle. It even crosses my mind to do so. But I don’t.

The Visible Man

As a teen, I was bullied, self-conscious, and insecure. Most of the time I wanted to be invisible. This is the main reason I thrive in big cities. As an older, overweight man, people just don’t notice me unless I make an effort. Otherwise, I drift by, looking for interesting people in the crowds. Even when I make eye contact with others, I’m instantly forgotten. However, a young, striking woman got off the bus as I was walking by *saw* me. I can’t really describe how I know, just that I suddenly became aware of myself. This happened in only a second. She turned around and walked away, leaving me frozen and vulnerable. Moments later, a pedestrian clipped me, and the world resumed.

On the Bright Side

Again, karmic balance comes through. The internet in my building went, and the library’s not open yet, so I have to walk a little over a mile to get to the nearest cafe. On the plus side, I get to walk in this weather, it’s still dawn, so everything is a sleepy orange, the cafe has a great breakfast sandwich, and I get to see stuff like this. I put this down as a win.

When Life Hands You Dilemmas

I live a little happy life with my little cat in my little hobbit hole doing my little projects and going on little adventures. My first cognitive behavioral therapist told me happiness is a choice. I didn’t understand how he could say so because I had an illness that choked the happiness out of me, but I eventually found a doctor who could give me a leg up with the help of medication. I can make that choice now, and I try to pick happiness whenever I get chance.

My office is closed for voting today. Since I cast my ballot yesterday, I have the day free, with the exception of my doctor’s appointment at 11:30. I think I’ll go to a cool cafe in the neighborhood when it opens at 7:30 (the only way to be guaranteed a seat) and try to draw, which I’ve been failing to do lately. I pick out a pair of adventure socks and hit the road.

Pictured: Adventure Socks

I’ve had a hard time focusing lately, so I’m ready to go with exactly enough time to make it there, maybe with a little waiting-outside time. The train ride is direct and lasts just enough to get a good half of a drawing in. As I close in on the station, I watch the elevated, southbound Red train arrive, meaning I’ll get there in time to catch the next one.

Yet, as I approach, the train stays where it is. I make it to the platform and witness a thickening cloud of commuters waiting for the doors to open on the same train. My dreams of doodling for twenty-five minutes dissipated. What happens next fills me with dread. Red-line riders are directed to go downtown to the Green line, ride that to Chinatown, and transfer to Red line for the next few stops to my destination. The Green train that arrives is only six cars, as opposed to the usual eight, meaning we’re more densely packed than a sardine tin full of black holes. The trip, as you can imagine, is a nightmare.

As an atheist, I believe this life is the only one I’m going to get. Sometimes this life sucks. Sometimes, you have to commute for half an hour with your nose shoved into the armpit of some dude who didn’t buy you dinner first. Sometimes, though, there’s another way. Over the next two stops, I fight the crush and the jostling to pull up a map of DC.

I find out there is another way.

When we reach U Street, I escape. This is a challenge. Despite being right next to the door, I have to push through five people to get to the empty platform. I ride up the escalator to Thirteenth Street to get my bearings, and I emerge into the crisp dawn of a city I love.

I’m free.

The U Street Corridor is the cultural hub of Washington DC, and I get to enjoy it, early in the morning, sharing it with no one but the joggers who clip me on their way to wherever it is they’re headed to in such a hurry.

I see murals.

Pictured: History

Pictured: Ruth Bader Ginsberg

I see local pubs, restaurants, and shops. I see Big Planet Comics, a satellite of the one I used to bike to in Virginia, perched next to a cards and a record store. I see embassies. I see mansions. I see brownstones. I see people walking their dogs. I see a dog park. I see pocket parks. I see art. I see sculpture. I see a sequined top caught in barbwire.

Pictured: So many questions

I may not believe in God, but I believe in luck. If I have to go to work, I’ll be stuck in the underground with all those unhappy people. If my train doesn’t break down, this will be just another trip into town. If the Green line doesn’t come close enough to DuPont Circle, I can’t take this brief stroll. If I don’t think to consult my phone in time, I’m stuck. But the universe aligns itself just right.

Because of everything, I get to the café twenty minutes after it opens. There is exactly one seat available. The Lady strikes again.

How Bazar Part 3: The Third Part

The other day, at four o’clock, I’m working on some doodles, applying the finishing touches, and imagining what it’s going to be like to carry this momentum all the way until dinnertime, and it hits me like a tetherball to the face. This is the first Friday of the month. Tonight is bazar night!

It opens at five, and everyone will be setting up until about 5:30, so this gives me plenty of time to get ready. I haven’t left my apartment all day, but this isn’t a pants issue. I’m always wearing pants, except for when I’m taking a shower and that thirty seconds between switching between day clothes to my jammies, but I want to put some effort into my appearance because the tarot card reader wants me to.

With plenty of time, I head out, wearing a nice shirt and my expanding collection of bracelets.

Pictured: Flair

I make it to the station swiftly, just in time to watch the southbound Red Line pull out. The next one arrives in eight minutes, and I’m on edge. Are they going to start bazarring without me? I have a friend to text with, and that passes the time until I arrive in ArtsWalk plaza.

Pictured: The long shadow of an artist

The plaza sits directly between the Metro station and Catholic University, which is surrounded by the nice neighborhood of Brookland. A lot of commuters and students pass through on their way home, and most of them stick around for a few minutes. Some even stay for the backgammon. It never ceases to amaze me how many backgammon players there are. Mina explains that backgammon is huge in the Middle East. She herself is very competitive and not above nuking the board.

Pictured: The competitive edge

Hungry, I try rookie eatery Amour Falasteen, a Palestinian popup with professional signage and menus, but spit and bailing wire for cooking. I order kafta arayes, a pita stuffed with shawarma beef, tahini, tomatoes, and onion. It smells great, and most of their profit goes to Gaza, but it doesn’t fill me with confidence that they have to keep checking the menu for the right ingredients. I shouldn’t have worried—it’s excellent.

Pictured: Dinner

Before I sit down and eat, I have to greet my new friend, Isa, the Ballstonian, the purveyor of Turkish delights, such as Turkish delight, Turkish coffee, and baklava. He’s thrilled to see me and shakes my hand with the force of the father of your prom date who has his eyes on you. Since I don’t want the top of my head blown off, I pass on the coffee and order the tea. I’m interested in some of his honey-heavy baklava, but all he has is chocolate, and my favorite baklava is baklava-flavored.

Isa, assembled out of pure class, offers to carry my order to the closest bench. I don’t mean to say “offers.” I mean to say “insists.” Sitting me down, he introduces me to the cute coed on the other end, who suddenly has somewhere else to be. This is not the end of my reunion with Isa. The chocolate baklava surprises me by being amazing. Not as amazing as plain, though.

Next, I swing by Anahita Herbal Medleys, the place that sells the honey concentrate syrups supposed to cure all maladies. I don’t know if the ones I bought the previous month did what they were supposed to, but they taste great, so I bought more. I also pick up something called “De-Stresse.” (Note: the next day, the scent of it stresses Oscar out, so I’m going to have to return it and say it’s busted.) Saira remembers me, and he gives me a generous discount, along with a little something extra.

Pictured: Herbal remedies

Next, I pull into a little Persian tent with one specialty. You can tell what that is through its name, Baklavaaa! They’re serving three different kinds today. Advieh, which has kind of a woody texture; rose, baked with rosewater; and pomegranate, from which a kick is promised. I don’t need more baklava tonight, but there’s always breakfast tomorrow. Note: a variety pack is the best way to start the day.

Pictured: Flaky delight

To my delight, Zack the Psychic is there. The last tarot-card reading gave me was not the worst one I’d ever had. That honor is reserved for the lady at the Colorado Renaissance Faire this summer. Still, he’s far from good. Zack, however, is charming and enthusiastic, and ten bucks for his company is a small price to pay. We spend most of our time talking about ourselves. For example, he was in an MLM for ten months, bailing before they seized control of his life and finances, and he’s trying to free his friend, who is being love-bombed by one, before it’s too late.

Pictured: A baffling reader

Last time, he told me there was a younger woman in my life who was trying to steal secrets from me. He asks after her and makes sure I didn’t tell her about what the cards said. I assure him that I did not spill his secrets, mostly because she doesn’t exist, and I have few secrets.

My reading this time has a lot of pie imagery.

Pictured: A baffling read

One of the cards he draws is the Lovers. He explains there is someone important in my life who is going to speak the things I need to hear, when I need to hear them, and it’s imperative I listen. As you can see, his deck is pretty and wild, and what he needs me to see is on the card from the Rider-Waite deck, which you’ve definitely seen before.

Pictured: *Censored*

He explains that the other party, symbolized by Eve, is receiving the harsh truths from the snake. Adam, who will receive that wisdom from her, not the angel above. He said that I should pay close attention when someone gives me a snake or something snake-adjacent. I should also watch for a pair of trees, probably at an orchard. It is literally the most literal tarot reading I’ve ever gotten.

Satisfied that I will not be encountering a snake at any time in the near future, I return to Isa.

Pictured: The most interesting man alive

He tells me how relieved he is to see me. He and the people I met last month were concerned that Malcolm had driven me off. In case you missed it, Malcolm was interested in World War II cosplay. Grant (or, as I know him, GRANT!) referred to the SS, which I thought was a joke. When Malcolm ran off to put on his stormtrooper costume, I asked, kidding, which kind of stormtrooper it was going to be.

Even though Malcolm chose wisely, Grant was not joking.

Pictured: The good kind of Stormtrooper

Malcolm is autistic, and he thinks the Nazis had great style. The whole group in Isa’s orbit has been trying explain that the SS is bad. Their only victory came when they convinced him to stop Sieg Heil saluting strangers on the street. Once, after watching a Tarantino movie, Malcolm called Hugo, who is black, the N-word with a hard R. Isa assures me he’s a sweet guy.

Understanding, I bring up the George Carlin quote, “Try explaining Hitler to a kid.” With his whole body, Isa says, “Exactly!” He loves the irreverent comedians, from Lenny Bruce to Richard Pryor, because they say everything (not “anything,” but “everything,” a huge distinction). He swears up and down he got to hang out with D.C. native, Dave Chappelle. Maybe not “hang out with.” But he met him.  

Isa is either a master bullshitter or the most fascinating person I ever met. Between his effusive expressions and his interests, he has my permission to talk, uninterrupted, for hours. We discuss my writing, and he asks about my method. I explain how it’s been hindered by my messy divorce from marijuana. He tells me he smokes it in the winter when he can’t open up the coffee truck. I tell him I had to quit because I have an addictive personality, he tells me he has one too, though that doesn’t explain how he can quit nine months out of the year.

I point out we’re situated between rival poetry readings, and he replies he doesn’t like any of that modern crap. He studied the classics, and he dropped an endless list of poets I don’t recognize. He grew up lonely in the slums of Istanbul, and reading was the only way he could get through it. He loves words and literature. He made a movie and wrote a play, which is true because I have his website bookmarked. I still haven’t watched either.

When I tell him I got through my lonely childhood with comics, he gets very excited. Comics were the first things he ever read for pleasure. His neighbor had an impressive collection, and he disappeared into the colors and the dynamism. When he needed more input, he found real books.

He takes the occasional break to call out to passersby, like he’s a traveling salesman in the Old West, about his beverages. Not a single person escapes his gravitational pull. He hard-sells everything, but no one goes for the coffee. I’m guessing most are aware that a single shot-glass-sized dose will keep you awake for a week. I’m jittery enough from the tea.

I have about a week’s worth of use-or-lose vacation, and I don’t want to use it all at once, out of fear of being drowned with work upon my return. My plan is to stay home and plug away at a project, whatever that might be, but maybe I want to go to 4000 Wilson Boulevard, where his truck is parked because it’s broken, and he can’t move it.

He tells me the Wednesday boys are something special. Everyone’s special at the Ballstonian. Isa shrugs. “It’s a magical spot. I don’t know what it is.”

It reaches an hour where, if I don’t leave right now, I will turn into a pumpkin. I announce my departure, and we shake hands like friends. Then he yanks me in for a hug. “You and I,” he says into my ear, “we’re kindred spirits.”

Spilling the Tea

*The story you are about to read is true. The names have been changed when I can’t remember them.*

On September 11, I try to do something alive. Mostly, I go to museums or spend time with friends. Today, I take a chance on something completely different.

Arlington, Virginia is one of D.C.’s Big Suburbs. When I used to live in Alexandria, it was a place I found myself in regularly, sometimes for the farmer’s market on Courthouse, sometimes Ray’s the Steaks or Ray’s Hell Burger, sometimes to visit people I know. The last time I came out here was because of a temp job. Otherwise, Virginia doesn’t hold a lot of interest for me.

However, after a Turkish gentleman named Isa became fixated on my resemblance to Phillip Seymour Hoffman at the Jomeh Bazar last Friday, he invited me to his coffee truck, the Ballstonian, parked every morning at 4000 Wilson Boulevard. I live about as far away from there as I can get while still being in D.C., but I’m looking for something to do, and I decide to make the schlep.

I find his truck, easily, parked near the “Jew-ish” bagel place, Call Your Mother, and it is a work of art. A seventies-era vintage car from his native Turkey, accompanied by Arabian-style low tables and stools, occupies a corner of sidewalk.

There is a Stormtrooper, but we’ll get back to him.

Isa is really excited to see me, like, really excited. He says he has been hoping I’d show up, and he serves me chai, not the American kind, but Turkish tea, like he wants to impress me. He also offers me Turkish delight, which lives up to its name.

At ten a.m., there are three people gathered around the truck, and he introduces me to them like I’m the most interesting person they’re ever going to meet. There’s Gary, who is fairly close to my age and wants to know everything about me. He thinks I’m retired. Yousef, a Kuwaiti transplant, doesn’t know what to make of me—it’s curiosity when I tell them I used to live in Qatar, then revulsion when I tell them my wife worked for the CIA. I do not speak to Caroline. She and Yousef leave shortly after my arrival, and the remaining attention is on me.

Isa unfolds a stool for himself and me, and mine is broken before I sit down. The addition of my weight deforms its legs, but Isa pounds them out and has no problem reclining on it. Gary tells us he was on an Air Force base in California when everything happened twenty-five years ago.

I tell them where I was. They poke and prod, and I tell them everything. I don’t often get to share the actual story anymore, and they really listen. The whole experience is cathartic. Gary and Isa settle down into a collective, “Whoa,” broken up by the arrival of Malcolm.

Malcolm doesn’t talk or emote, and he’s got this intensity to him that may be shyness, or it could be sociopathy.  He sits on the far end of the tables and drinks his tea.

When the crazy woman shows up and talks to him, she is casually diverted away by Isa’s effusive personality. She tries to talk to Gary, who says, “Nope.” This is her first time at the Balstonian, but Isa has a lot of experience with crazy people.

Isa reminds me of Shane, in that he is best friends with everyone. We’re joined by four other people he’s excited to see: Kieron, Grant, Hugo, and Cody. Hugo is a defense contractor who leans left, and he just went to conference for the “Department of War,” where he hooked up with one of two women older than twenty-five. Cody, with his neatly trimmed beard and shampoo-commercial, curly, cinnamon locks, simply abides. Keiran is silent for the most part but is amused by everyone. His only job is to take the piss out of Grant when necessary.

Grant.

Grant is cranked up to eleven. He’s what I would call extra. Isa leans in and tells me that this is now Grant’s show. He’s also incredibly charming, and he makes sure he talks to all of us equally, especially the old guy. As a twenty-something resident of New York City, he interrogates me on what it was like to live there at the turn of the century. I explain the concept of CBGB’s, which I never thought I’d have to do, and he tells me how cool I am.

“2003 begs to differ,” I reply.

Grant is the one flashing gang signs.

He works his magic on Malcolm and finds out he cosplays. Grant even coaxes out some pictures. Malcolm’s main focus is historical costumes, and Grant keeps referring to his SS uniform. I am unable to work out whether he’s kidding or not, which becomes a genuine concern when he convinces Malcolm to show us his Stormtrooper outfit. Panicked, I ask, “What kind of Stormtrooper are we talking about here?” Hugo tells me to relax.

I hope Malcolm recognizes how awesome it is that he’s shown this group of mostly strangers his passion.

Two glasses of Turkish tea make me jittery as the afternoon approaches, and I bow out and stop first for an obscenely good sandwich at Call Your Mother. With a surprise hug, Grant tells me I was the most educational thing to happen to him, and he just backpacked through Spain.

Isa tells me the Balstonian is there every weekend, which is useful information to have.

Life in the Winchester House

The Twin Towers have been rubble longer than they’ve stood.

Since then, I’ve watched the world move on.

Since then, I’ve tried.

Since then, I write something every year. As time goes on, each post gets less engagement. I wonder why I keep doing it, but it’s one of the most impactful days of my life, and I still don’t understand what happened.

Since then, nobody knows what to say to me.

Since then, I’ve been denied insurance coverage for mental health because 9/11-related trauma is a preexisting condition.

Since then, I’ve been told by psychologists I’m over it, let’s talk about something else.

Since then, I’d been told by a mayor that the air was a little smoky, don’t worry about it.

Since then, I’ve been told by doctors that my lung issues were entirely related to smoking and not Ground Zero.

Since then, I was estranged from a family member for nearly a decade because of something callous they said about people like me.

Since then, I was hired by a long-defunct marketing blog to memorialize the tenth anniversary in a drawing I tried to make solemn but came out kind of icky.

Since then, I’ve listened to politician after politician brag about what they were doing that morning.

Since then, I watched a president cower in an undisclosed location then step onto a mound of death with a bullhorn and a mandate.

Since then, I’ve heard people, twenty- and thirty-years younger, tell edgy jokes about it.

Since then, I’ve laughed at some of these jokes.

Since then, I’ve made some of those jokes.

Since then, I’ve noted the amount of selfie sticks and smiling faces at the 9/11 Memorial in New York.

Since then, I learned just how long I could stay drunk and high before I had to shuffle, blinking, into the real world (two weeks).

Since then, I watched memos flutter to the ground in Brooklyn, disintegrating in my hands.

Since then, I sat through a church service where hundreds of people stood up and asked for a prayer, each one progressively more cynical and defeated, without the slightest bit of hope to be found.

Since then, I’ve wondered what happened to the ash-covered yuppie who cut his time at the payphone short so others could call their loved ones, in what may have been one of the kindest acts I recall seeing in New York that day.

Since then, I’ve hunted for anything that will give my heart the jolt I felt that day, and everything, from a mugging to spectacle movies to an unexpected divorce to riding the Cyclone, fell short.

Since then, I’ve hungered for someone to talk who gets it. Those who experienced it through pictures and video, whether from thousands of miles away or in Midtown, will never understand, and I would never diminish the fear and confusion they suffered.

Since then, I feel silly because countless others saw and lost so much more.

Since then, I never want to forget.

Since then, I never want to think about it again.

Since then, I take this day off every year and try to do something alive to keep the ghosts away.

How Bazar 2: Eclectic Boogaloo

It’s been a rocky few months for me. About six weeks ago, my office caught fire, and we’ve been working from home ever since. Not walking 30-35 minutes to the Metro, then to the office, has been taking its toll on me, and I’ll go days without leaving my building. Last month, while I waited for maintenance to fix my faucet, and I didn’t leave my 434-square-foot apartment for four days. All this has left me hyperfocused on Oscar’s opinion of me, and it became clear he doesn’t like me. Shortly afterward, I looked in the mirror, and I realized I’m really, really fat.

The Thursday before last, I woke up so depressed, I called in sick. I hauled myself out of bed that day and did things I ordinarily don’t do, like eat lunch at a restaurant. After observing Oscar for a few days without anthropomorphizing him, I realized his personality is just aloof. Living with a lap cat for twenty years spoiled me. He shows affection with proximity, and I’m going to have get used to that.

I’ve been a lot better since then, counting the days to the Jomeh Bazar, which I last went to in May. The bazar is located in a plaza surrounded by art studios, some of which are open. Nearly all the vendors are Middle Eastern, which makes sense because it was founded by an Iranian artist.

My first stop is Turkish coffee. If you’ve never had a Turkish coffee, it is slow-brewed and served in a cup the size of a double-shot glass. After drinking one, you need to throw back a Red Bull to take the edge off. The Discworld analog, Klatchian coffee, makes you knurd, which is so sober, you need to drink in order to avoid collapsing under the weight of brutal clarity. Terry Pratchett wasn’t exaggerating.

The vendor is the Ballstonian, and man who serves me is Isa. Before I can even order, he exclaims, “You know who you look like? Phillip Seymour Hoffmann!” He turns to his teenage daughter and asks her, “Don’t you think he looks like Phillip Seymour Hoffmann?”

She rolls her eyes. “I don’t know who that is.” Her body says she endures him but also adores him.

“You don’t know who that is?”

After discussing Hoffmann’s oeuvre, he sells me some baklava and sends me to a bench. I enjoy one of my favorite desserts, which is exceptional, and I especially enjoy the packet of moist towelettes his daughter handed me.

While I’m covered in honey, wishing I had taken two towelettes, Mina, the cool artist wanders by on the way to her studio, and she recognizes me! She’s, like, the coolest person I’ve met recently, so I want to say something equally cool, but I have no idea what to say. My heartbeat sounds like a monkey on Turkish coffee freestyling with a bongo, and there’s no way she doesn’t hear it.

Luckily, Isa swoops in, hands me my cup of liquid electricity, and says to her, “You know who he looks like? Phillip Seymour Hoffmann!”

Her eyes go wide. “He does!”

They take turns describing all of my Hoffmanesque qualities while I take a jolt from my coffee. I tell them I used to get Kiefer Sutherland when I was younger. Isa laughs and says, “With two margaritas in a dark room, you know who he is? Kenneth Branagh!”

Mina says, “I’m jumbling all these faces into my artist’s mind!”

The spotlight goes away shortly after, and I pull out my sketchbook. According to Isa, Labor Day weekend is always slow, but there are still great people to see. I do rough, life-drawing sketches to solidify their appearances in my memory and get up to explore.

My next stop is Bicycle Trash, which is hosting a “Sewing Machine Petting Zoo,” where they display seven vintage sewing machines from the forties and fifties, which still work and are used in their classes. My next stop is T. Mofid Art, where I buy some unusually sized prints as presents. Following this, I stop at a vendor whose name I’ve forgotten, which reclaims thrift store clothes and dyes them with real plants. My new T-shirt, which I will fit into when I lose some weight, is indigo.

Pictured: A good reason to drop some pounds

After enjoying a Persian cookie recommended by Mina, I draw some more and sit down for a tarot reading. I don’t believe in anything supernatural, but I have a rule: I will pay for a tarot reading whenever I see one. At the Renaissance Faire in Colorado, I went to two readers. One was terrible, but the other was uncanny. Uncanny enough that I’d believe she was real if I didn’t know better.

This guy is not great. Every interpretation of every card is way off. (“Have younger women been coming to you to steal some kind of information, something you’ve been guarding carefully?” “No.” “Do you have any information you’re keeping secret?” “No.” “You may not know you have this information. Watch for younger women.”) Unlike the bad reading in Colorado, he is fun to talk to, and I admire the way he twists himself into pretzels trying to fit his square peg into my round hole. (“Your office caught fire? I told you! It’s the Tower card!”) He also tells me I should put a little more effort into my appearance.

The last vendor I see is Anahita Herbal Medleys, which sells medicinal syrups. I pick one that helps with immunity and focus, as well as one that inspires creativity and vivid dreams.

Pictured: The tastiest herbal remedies

On my way home, I stop back at the Ballstonian because I want to try their cardamom iced tea. Isa tells me all about his coffee truck and how he set up tables on the sidewalk every day at 4000 Wilson Boulevard in Arlington. He unlocks his phone to show me a picture of his vintage Turkish truck, and the first image that comes up is my late doppelganger, Phillip. Isa thinks he would have made a great Joker. “Heath Ledger was really good. He’s dead too, but Phillip Seymour Hoffman would have been amazing.”

I make my exit, chased away by mosquitos, and return to Oscar. He yells at me for attention, but walks away when I try to pet him. After I go to sleep, he curls up next to my head. When I wake up at my usual time, he has long ago abandoned the bed because he doesn’t want me getting the wrong idea. He’s not Newcastle, but we’ve almost got each other figured out.

Sunny Days I Thought Would Never End

I’m sitting here in the Brookland Arts Walk and Farmer’s Market in the summer heat. Crying and trying not to fall into disgusting sobs.

I had a rough night, and I overate some pizza, which was supposed to make me feel better, but made me sick because I’m fifty.

As my ex-wife always said, sleep is the great reset button. The next morning, I finished the movie I couldn’t finish last night, eating breakfast, drinking coffee, and petting Oscar.

It was a rough start, but I rode the Metro a stop to Brookland. I spent the early morning in a coffee shop, eating second breakfast and sipping a London Fog, watching to-go coffees passed out to neighbors in various stages of wakefulness.

I’m in the business of people-watching. And doodling them. I came to the Arts Walk to show my cool picture to Mina, the cool printmaker, and pick up a couple of things to tide me over for the weekend.

I found a bench to settle down with my pupusa (a doughy pancake stuffed, in my case, with spinach, cheese, and chicken) and pineapple smoothie while a blues performer played.

A couple of people had caught my attention, so I finished third breakfast and broke out my sketchbook. That’s when the musician broke out James Taylor’s “Fire and Rain.” It was the third time he sang, “And I always thought I’d see you again,” that it hit me violently.

Here I go, twenty minutes later, and here come the sobs. I tipped the singer twenty bucks on Venmo for, “Making me cry.”

I have so much to tell you, Shane. I have so much to show you. But you’re not here anymore.

How Bazar, How Bazar

Early in April, I met an Iranian artist, named Mina, who made quite the impression. She has a studio in the Brookland ArtsWalk, a small plaza dedicated to bougie creativity. Every Saturday morning, weather permitting, the artists open their studios to the public, where they sell art and merch. Mina was attentive and excited to tell me about her work, which is all I really want from an artist.

Add in the food vendors and farmers who spring up, it really is the best way to spend a weekend morning, especially in the spring.

I’d been several times, but I’ve never been to Kucheh Studios before last month, when I popped in and was stunned by the stark beauty of the woodcuts.

Pictured: Shameless Advertisement

I’ve been mesmerized by this print, but I didn’t pick it up because I wasn’t ready to drop that price on a print. After thinking about it for two weeks, I went back and discovered that I was completely wrong about the price. It was twice as much as I thought it was. It’s worth it.

The first time I met Mina, she explained the protest symbolism in her work while I listened eagerly. Over the next week, I had to tell everybody about this experience. It was invigorating. The second time I stopped by, she invited me to Jumeh Bazar, which she was sponsoring Friday evening. There would be food, music, and art.

ArtsWalk is a Metro stop away, but there’s a bike/running trail that leads from my station to Brookland. I’ve wanted to walk this path since I first saw it from the train, but it seems daunting. A mile is okay—my station is about a mile away, and I walk that at least five days a week—but two seems like way too much. Friday, though … Friday is perfect, peak spring. The path I stroll along runs parallel to my train, so I’d seen the scenery already. However, I’m not blowing by this time, and I can appreciate the aggressive vegetation, industrial buildings, and graffiti from a fresh angle.

Pictured: Art

I’m there before I know it. The first thing I notice is that it isn’t a very big event. There are half a dozen vendors and not much of a crowd. However, it’s only five p.m., and nobody else keeps my work hours.

Arriving early means I get extra time with everyone. It starts with Turkish coffee. This is because I’m reading the menu on a table, and I’m pounced upon by the most adorable teenage girl. While she makes my drink, I try to make conversation, but everything I say is more awkward than the last.

The thing about Turkish coffee is that it makes Red Bull look like chamomile tea. Each cup comes with a warning label. I sit on a bench and sip it, watching people drift through from the adjacent Metro station, until I can get rid of the cup.

My feet insist on moving, and I find myself at a baklava table manned by the cheeriest woman I’ve seen in some time. I thought there was only one kind of baklava, and it was baklava-flavored, but nothing could be further from the truth. She describes each item on the menu like she’s a sommelier. I chat with her and her shockingly handsome husband about bazar culture, something I’ve missed from Doha. I leave with four orange-cardamom baklavas. They are delicious.

My next stop is the guy with red bottles all over his little table. I saunter in and listened to his pitch to the young lady before me. He sells herbal remedies in concentrated tea form, and he is passionate about it. Once he snags me, he offers us both samples and explains which herbs, flowers, berries, and fungi combine to treat mild pain, depression, brain fog, and a number of other ailments. I ask if he has something for focus, and he has the perfect ginseng blend. He even takes the time to tell me what ginseng is. He also says the word psychotropic, but that’s probably nothing to worry about. He gives me some black tea on the house, and I sit down to listen to the taste of what colors smell like.

On previous ArtsWalks, I would sit on a bench or a curb and doodle a bit. The energy is great, and there is always at least one striking person. That in mind, I have brought a sketchbook with me, and I draw the guy with the potions.

Pictured: Potions

I was there long enough, but I have to make two more stops before I’ll take the train home like the lazy American I am.

I find Mina sitting at a table in front of her studio, carving a small tile. She has a very enthusiastic hello for me, which makes me feel special. I took a woodcutting class two years ago, so I’m familiar with the tools, but that was about it. I don’t tell her because my woodcut is not very good.

Pictured: “Electric Cat“

She explains the material, the process, and more symbolism, while I listen to her, entranced, asking any question that occurs to me, unlike usual, when I keep them to myself so I don’t seem dumb. She’s eager to talk about her craft, and I love to learn about other people’s art. Eventually, people she knows stop by, and I slip away.

I’m almost finished, but I can’t avoid the siren song of my favorite cuisine, Lebanese. This booth specializes in man’oushe, a cheesy, heavily seasoned flatbread. Working with a Palestinian restaurant, they have created new flavors specifically for the Jomeh Bazar. I have the shawarma chicken and will recommend it to anyone who asks.

I have had enough caffeine that I can vibrate through solid objects, but I go home anyway. I crash about two hours later, well past my bedtime, but at least I sleep. It’s worth it.